“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essentials facts of life. And see if I could not learn what it had to teach and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived”: Thoreau
Sunset @ Kovalam beach
After being oblivious to myself… refuting all comforts of life…. Living my ordeals, no more… Killing the Concern of dwindling cash…pursuing broken desires, no more… live off the familiar to rediscover myself… here I was on the beach of Kovalam to begin a new life of a vagrant… Invariably alone…
Light house beach Kovalam
Once had been a hippie’s paradise, the undisturbed sand of Kovalam is considered as one of the finest in India and the first glimpse of the sea is welcoming in the backdrop of picturesque light house. The shallow sea at Kovalam is surely one of your safest chances to get into the sea and indeed among the very few beaches in India where you can surf over the mild wavelets. Perhaps Kovalam is not just visited to enjoy the sinuous waves, there is much more along the coastline which makes you stay longer and longer with no finite time limit. Everything comes with a price tag and matchless destination like Kovalam is no exception hence considered as one of the most expensive beach destination of the country but a bit inland life is still affordable for budget travelers.
Kovalam beach line
City Bus from Trivandrum dropped me to the last stop which is just in front of Leela Hotel. I took out my map and asked bystanders about light house beach but I could not locate that despite walking 2-3 km back and forth. Finally I hired an auto to drop me to the main beach which is indeed very close to the bus stand but I could not notice the narrow lane downhill entering to the main beach. The main beach starts at the northern side of the light house along a walkway with plenty of accommodation options and restaurants serving sea foods. After initial struggle I could find a room affordable to my budget.
Aerial View of Kovalam Beach
Not always you want to admire the beauty from a distance… unlike onlookers, who really want to spectate his love all life without intimacy… without a tight hug… a deep kiss… sweet tingling or cuddling up… I am afraid of water; it’s something I need to get over sometime in near future. Like soul mate, the irresistible sea at Kovalam supported me to overcome my fear and swallowed me into its arms… welcomed me with its gentle thrust and graced me with its perpetual love which otherwise was missing since the inception.. I was enthralled when I rose up towards the blue… cannot recollect whether it was sky or ocean that projected to my retina… the mellow touch of the lover passed me through a marrow of life…
“In the deepest ocean, bottom of the sea... Your eyes…they turn me…”
Other side of Beach Kovalam
After changing outfits suitable for Kerala's humidity, I started my quest for the first lunch. All the restaurants on the beach line were good but primarily serving sea food only so I had to walk inland to find a decent vegetarian restaurant which was getting rekindled after monsoon. Later I thought of visiting somewhere far from the eyes of tourists and I boarded a city bus heading south along the coastline and generated a ticket till the last stop.
Poovar beach near Kovalam
Bus passed by Vizhinjam fishing harbor… ran further along the coast line and finally stopped at Poovar junction. Poovar is not a guide book town but surely pristine with road side fish market and pungent smell of fishes. Among tourists Poovar is known for an Ayurvedic resorts situated near an estuary but certainly not for a broke like me. If you are near the coastline then there is surely a beach no matter nameless or with a name. Reaching unknown, unfamiliar always exhilarated me and poovar offered one of such chances. Soon afterwards, I was standing facing the blue sea…staring straight to the burning sun….all alone.. I don’t know which song nature just played…Was it “Wish you were here”…
Lakshadweep Sea at Poovar beach
I was neither stoned nor hallucinated but just unaware of my own life.. a pseudo life that I lived for long which always kept me away from the truth.. a hut on the shore was shadowing a wooden boat. Beach was also covered with a thin layer of fresh catch drying out on the sand. After taking some photographs, I caught a bus back to Kovalam Junction.
Kovalam Junction to Poovar beach: Bus (18 km, 12 INR, 45 minutes)
Samudra beach Kovalam
After returning Kovalam junction, I again took out my map and searched for other offbeat beaches nearby. Samudra beach (also considered as the only nude beach near Kovalam) became the next in the stack. Samudra beach is some 1 km far from Kovalam junction. Samudra beach is near a village primarily engaged in fishing and also has a long promenade suitable for beach walk. There is also a luxury resort on beach front and a headland separating it from Ashoka beach. I crossed the headland and reached to relatively crowded Ashok beach. Ashok beach is a favorite destination among Indian tourists and can be easily noticed from a mosque on the beach. The headland separating it from Eve’s beach is occupied by Leela group of hotels. They have also occupied some part of Ashok beach as well.
Eve's Beach Kovalam
Passing the market lined up with souvenir’s shops, currency exchangers, hotels and restaurants I walked back to my hotel room and took a bathe again to wash up the sweating body. The next destination was light house that is situated just at an end of Kovalam beach. Light house is open for public only in the evening [Timing- 4:30 PM to 5:30 PM, 10 INR, 20 INR for Camera]. Light house is worth to visit if you want to get an elongated view of Kovalam beach line and watch the maddening crowd from a height.
Twilight at Kovalam beach
Sunset at Kovalam is another fascinating event which is largely admired by all its visitors though there is nothing exclusive about it (If you had been to other beaches before). Transformation of Kovalam beach after sunset is simply overwhelming with drunkards receding to the dark caves of bars. Alcohol and Sea food options are in surplus but a vegetarian will have to struggle… no need of concern though… walk a bit inland, you will definitely find vegetarian restaurant.. South Indian Veg cuisines are easily available…Unlike Goa, despite of vibrant crowd; Night is still serene with non-existence of pubs, night clubs on the beach line.
Evening @ Beach Kovalam
- There are frequent busses (AC and Non-AC) from Trivandrum to Kovalam.
- Bus will drop you at Kovalam bus stand (in front of Leela), to reach Light house beach walk downhill from the first right (South)
- Last AC bus from Trivandrum is at 8:00 PM.
- A budget room on beach front will cost 300-400 INR per night.
- Try Parathas in Kovalam and Trivandrum.
- There are options to get a room/flat on rent for months or a year if you are looking for extended laid-back vacations.
- Food is expensive @ Kovalam
- Palinkudi and Chowara beaches are lazy alternative from Kovalam’s crowd. These lie on the way to Poovar beach.
Keralan Odyssey: The Complete Series (In Chronological Order)